Q: My steering box does not line up with my column.

A: Due to the narrow design of the new box, it was necessary to angle to bracketry slight. This way it points towards the column. The coupler is designed to allow for this degree of misalignment.

Q: My column doesn’t reach the new box. Is something wrong with the coupler?

A: Mopar columns from 67 and up were collapsible for safety reasons. Many times, the nylon inside the shafts has deteriorated and allowed the column shaft to be inadvertently collapsed during installation. Pull the shaft above the coupler to extend back to its original position.

Q: Mopar coupler is binding.

A: Since the new coupler is based on the same design as the original, it is possible to pull the column to deep inside the coupler. The factory specification applies here.

Q: I installed the new coupler and my steering is loose.

A: The shoes fit inside the coupler 2 ways. When installed incorrectly, the shaft will be loose. When installed properly, the fit will be snug and the spring will point toward the side of the coupler body and need to be carefully tucked inside the coupler.

Q: I installed your kit and my steering does not return to center.

A: If you are confident no other changes were made during this installation, take note of the steering effort, especially at idle/low rpm. The Borgeson steering box operates on higher pressure than the original Saginaw box did. We recommend using a Saginaw pump for durability and the ease of recalibration. There are instances where federal, trw, and Chrysler style pumps lack in output.

Q: What to do if I have a question or a problem?

A: I make myself available via phone, email and text. I will help any way I can. 516-384-6438


  1. Our coupler is designed to replace an original Mopar steering coupler when converting to Borgeson Mopar power steering box. The main coupler body will install just as the factory did, with the wide side of the roll pin hole straight up. The roll pin is no longer used for retention.
  1. Center the new box by turning the steering box from either left or right stop to center by approximately 1 13/16 turns. When the box is on center, turning will become stiff. Since the stiff portion of the sector does not provide exact centering, it is helpful to look underneath the vehicle when the pitman arm is fitted. When centered, the center of the pitman shaft and the grease fitting for the joint to the center link will be in direct line or very close with one another front to rear.
  1. Slide the coupler all the way down on the input splines as far as it can go. When installed properly, the set screw will lock against the splines adjacent to the steering box housing.
  1. Coat set screw threads with any type of thread locking material. Tighten lock nut to insure set screw stays in position. Tighten lock nut.
  1. A coupler rebuild kit is provided for your convenience. However, not all parts from this kit are needed. The roll pin is no longer used with the new coupler design. We recommend the reuse of your original components provided they fit tightly in the new coupler. Replacement of the cross pin is not necessary. Be sure to use the small knurled pin, as this is a safety device to prevent the shaft from sliding out of the coupler. The lock plate and seal are provided as well. Care must be taken to install properly. It will also be helpful to coat the internals of the coupler with wheel bearing grease.
  1. Toe adjustment may be necessary due to manufacturing tolerances.

    7. Please do not hesitate to call with any questions, we are here to help! Call or text with questions to 516.384.6438



  1. Our BAC power steering hose adapter set is designed for use with the Borgeson Mopar power steering box.
  1. The pressure and return fittings are both the same size. These are custom fittings designed to adapt your new Borgeson steering box to Mopar style pressure and return hoses. DO NOT thread the pressure fitting into your pump. Please note the pressure fitting is towards the front of the vehicle when the steering box is mounted on the K frame. Since the seal is as an inverted flare no sealer is necessary on the threads. The male side fits popular female threaded Mopar power steering hoses.
  1. The return line fits directly into the rear port in the steering box. Since the seal is an inverted flare no sealer is necessary on the threads. Simply attach your existing return hose past the barb and clamp. The return line was designed to exit in the identical location of the Mopar steering box with the popular 45 degree exit.


Congratulations on purchasing the most durable lower control pivot package on the market. Our components are designed for quiet operation, precise movement and long life.

Installation tips:

Remove rubber bushing outer shell from control arm

Insert the delrin bushing 25% of the way.

Lube the pin surface that contacts the ID of the new bushing.

Insert the pin 25% into the bushing.

Lightly press together. Pin pushes all the way to the stop.

Be sure to push the torsion bars all the way forward.

Tighten retention nuts to at least 100 ft/lbs via electric or pneumatic impact gun


  1. Your new idler arm is designed to replace your original. It has been fitted with high load Torrington bearings and delrin bushings.
  2. Be sure to clean up any damaged areas inside the k frame socket.
  3. Each Torrington bearing has been oiled during assembly. A dab of wheel bearing grease will ensure long life.
  4. Tighten the supplied lock nut enough to snug the arm and remove any vertical play. Do not over tighten the arm as it will cause binding.
  5. Please do not hesitate to call with any questions, we are here to help!     


This kit is designed as a cost effective method of improving the geometry of your Mopar front suspension. Below are some tips to make installation easier.

  • Remove outer shells from lower control arm and discard.
  • Retain inner shells on factory pivot pins. If you are using BAC pivots, the inner diameter is already matched to the inside diameter of the BAC delrin bushing.
  • The use of thick grease similar to the type used on popular urethane bushings is recommended for assembly.
  • Lube the outside surface of the bushing and push in approximately 25% of the way into the arm. Lube the pivot pin and start it the same way pressing into inside of the bushing. From here a vice or press will easily push the pivot into the bushing and bushing into the arm.
  • At this point, the pin/arm assembly can be started into the k frame. Take a moment to read the included QA1 instructions as the strut rod needs to be installed simultaneously with the lower arm assembly.
  • Once the lower control arm/strut assembly is installed, it is important to note, the pin will need to be tightened by air gun or electric gun with full suspension load or the pin will spin in the bushing. This assumes you are using the OE style prevailing torque nuts. If these tools are not available, a standard nut and lock washer can be used. Abide by factory torque setting.
  • When installing the torsion bars, be sure to push them all the way forward against the inside of the front socket.
  • Due to the self lubricating properties of delrin, along with its high durometer, greasing is rarely necessary during the life of the bushing.
  • Offset upper control arm bushings should be installed to push the front portion of the control arm outboard. The rear bushing should be installed, the opposite. The rear portion of the arm will be offset inboard, towards the centerline of the vehicle.
  • Installing the bushings in this orientation creates increased caster for better road holding. Once the vehicle is on an alignment machine, 3 degrees should be attainable. Combine with negative ¾ – 1 degree camber and 1/16-1/18” total toe in, your vehicle will feel more centered and stable at speed.